A trip to the former royal capital of Laos and an exploration of the history of the cooking there, preserved through one unlikely cookbook and the efforts of chefs today.
Laotian cuisine can be hard to find, but it’s certainly worth the search. Get your Lao food fix at these four places in and around Los Angeles.a few years after my first visit, yet for me, the book was more than just a list of recipes. It was a snapshot of a fascinating culinary world, one that effortlessly intertwined mountainous jungle and royal palace, smoky grills and sauté pans, the eggs of and tins of crab meat.
“He was a strict man!” Chanthanom recalled when we met. “He would tell you if he wasn’t happy with something.” In 1976, Chanthanom — who was born in Luang Prabang in 1932 — and her family were forced out of the palace by the communists, and since then they’ve lived a few doors down, in a French-era building that today houses a travel agency.
“The king ate sticky rice,” she said of the staple but rustic local carb, another example of his devoutly Lao tastes. “He only ate long-grained rice when guests came.” Yet Phia Sing was, of course, cooking in a royal palace, and many of his recipes go in a direction that doesn’t reflect Lao-style home cooking. Several of his curry dishes include coconut milk, an ingredient associated more with the Thai kitchen. And while the majority of Lao dishes are grilled, steamed or boiled, Phia Sing has a fondness for frying.
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