A 55-year-old man's passion for sandwiches on social media has gained him hundreds of thousands of followers. He recreates historical sandwich recipes and shares them on his accounts, surprising himself with the success. Sandwiches have universal appeal and can be made with any ingredients, making them a popular and portable food choice.
arry Enderwick’s adventures in sandwiches began with a filling of chopped raw oysters. It was, he says, “so gross”. Still, his epic sandwich exploration continued with gusto. Since December 2018, Enderwick – a one-man historical re-enaction society, armed with mayonnaise and old cookery books – has recreated recipes for his social media accounts,, has now turned into a daily lunchtime creation for hundreds of thousands of followers. Its success has come as something of a surprise.
Enderwick’s sandwiches, which have so far mainly focused on 20th-century recipes, are positively modern, if also unfamiliar. I like the trends in ingredients, such as the regularity with which almonds pop up in sandwiches in his earliest recipe books, and the enthusiasm among American recipe-writers for Worcestershire sauce.
In The Up-to-Date Sandwich Book, one is made from popcorn, cayenne pepper, sardines, ketchup and parmesan. Mushrooms are paired with ground lobster and ketchup , cream cheese is mixed with cornflakes , and there’s even a banana and salmon creation from 1967. Bow down before the not-entirely-appetisingly named Bummers Custard “sandwich” , with its filling of roquefort, brandy, olive oil and Worcestershire sauce. Onion juice features in a cheese sandwich from 1936.
Through the medium of bread and fillings, you can also trace societal and cultural shifts. “It’s interesting because there’s a book, 1001 Sandwiches, from 1936, right in the Great Depression. Sure enough, they have sandwiches that are kind of bare bones, but the book also has a caviar sandwich.” “There’s a lot of opportunities for peanut butter to be used as a savoury ingredient in a sandwich. My grandmother used to make a sandwich with peanut butter and a fried egg.” Enderwick added hot sauce and coriander, “and that is a tasty combination”.The concept of a “dessert sandwich” is something he hadn’t really considered before.
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