You need a really hot pan, no moisture and plenty of space to get the best out of your meat
, which occurs when proteins and sugars are transformed by the application of heat. For this reason, “you always want to sear meat before putting it in a pan or into the oven”, says Charlie Crote, head chef of thein London. “This builds a crust on the outside, and firms up the meat .” It’s worth noting, though, that this simple technique is all about flavour; it’s sometimes said that browning meat also seals in the juices, but that’s simply not true.
On hitting the pan, the meat should sizzle immediately, and make sure there’s plenty of space between each piece. “It’s really important not to overcrowd the pan, otherwise the meat will stew rather than brown and get that lovely crust,” Gyngell adds. “Don’t fuss with it, either, by which I mean don’t prod and constantly turn it.” Rather, you want to leave the meat to do its thing – even if it looks as if it’s sticking to the bottom, “once the crust forms, it will eventually release itself”.
Always remember to deglaze the browning pan, too – there are a lot of crisp, tasty bits to be had there. Gyngell pours off any excess fat, wipes the pan lightly with kitchen towel, then returns it to the heat. “Add some wine, leave it to bubble and reduce, then add any other flavourings and tip into the meat tray.”
If a stew or braise is your jam, meanwhile, remember that low and slow will win the day: “It will also taste so much better if it’s made ahead of time, left to cool, and reheated,” Gyngell says. Happily, that makes such dishes ideal for autumn entertaining, too.
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