The old gourmet model of fine dining has never seemed so disconnected, irrelevant, and out of touch. plattypants writes
Is there any real future for the old gourmet model of fine dining? Photo: Pari Dukovic Earlier this past summer, as the fine-dining world was slowly emerging from its long and fitful COVID nightmare, I found myself with an extra reservation to Daniel Humm’s newly vegan-centric restaurant, Eleven Madison Park.
Not anymore. When I finally made it to Eleven Madison Park, my companion voiced her horror at many aspects of the experience, but most of all the bill, which, in a time when the city’s unemployment rate hovers around 10 percent, came to $898.22 once the endless procession of old-world wines and herbal teas had been totted up.
In fairness, the great hurricane has hit these upscale joints harder than most, and like old supertankers designed to move only in one direction, they’ve been buffeted by all sorts of bad weather. There are price increases and labor shortages like everywhere else; with the end of midtown office lunches and free-spending overseas tourists for the time being, many have seen their clientele vanish into thin air.
Then there’s the even more dire question of relevance and tone. Even before COVID, grander, upmarket restaurants tended to make headlines not for the glories of their food but for dodgy labor practices and the piggish behavior of their once-admired chefs.
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