A great guide is worth every rupee in India, especially to jump queues

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A great guide is worth every rupee in India, especially to jump queues
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From navigating a 150-year-old fish market to skipping the crowds at the Taj Mahal and knowing the best restaurants, a local tour guide will know how your time is best spent.

My 30-something Mumbai-born guide has come to pick me up at my hotel next to the Gateway of India.

Still dark – after a quick change from our smelly fish market shoes – we head to nearby Victoria Terminus where newspapers are delivered and sorted for distribution on bicycles.There are dozens of daily newspapers in several languages. That’s why the print media is still thriving here with decent circulation numbers. The guide’s family takes five or six newspapers every day. Being a sports nut, he wants to read results and match reports.

Over the course of the trip, a raft of guides help me to get tickets for the major sites, avoiding long queues. They explain the best ways to get to and from; the best times to visit – and make worthwhile alterations to my itinerary. They also save this unsuspecting traveller from all sorts of run-of-the-mill tourist shops, steering them instead towards the real thing.

The guide here is a young villager. He takes tours but runs an electronics repair business as his main gig, and has his own blog. He’s training two young women to be guides; they tag along to see him in action, and prove to be the only women guides I encounter on the entire trip. We go into the homes of locals, who make simple clay pots, then head onto Sadhana, an impressive women’s handicraft enterprise.

Their all-handmade products are of a high quality, fair-trade certified, and cost a fraction of similar goods sold elsewhere. But the Sadhna’s real strength is in delivering economic and social power to these women. At other times, I get equally virulent anti-Modi rants. These diatribes can be informative, and at the same time supremely annoying, but they are usually not hard to shut down.guides on foot through the back alleys of the old city into artisan workshops where people carve temple statues; we wander past old havelis , truly historic architectural gems. Sharma is the only guide on the trip who refuses to take a tip when I ask if he will accept a thank-you.

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