Tim Walker is the first living photographer to have a show at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum. Here’s what to expect
Tim Walker, Why Not Be Oneself?; Tilda Swinton; fashion: Gucci, Marc Jacobs; jewelry: Lisa Eisner Jewelry, Vela, Uno de 50, A. Brandt + Son; Renishaw Hall, Derbyshire, 2018. Photo: © Tim Walker Studio Tim Walker feels miscast in his title as a fashion photographer. He’s famous for his theatrical portraits of celebrities and cats dyed pastel hues, his images of contorted reality spread across the pages of Vogue, WSJ, and W.
Fashion-imagery budgets are not what they once were, forcing many young photographers to adopt a more bare-bones approach, but Walker — who worked as Richard Avedon’s fourth assistant in the early ’90s, before getting a job archiving Cecil Beaton’s work — still commands the resources to create images that are fantastical and playful, a strange and joyful world for both subject and viewer.
Unlike other photographers, Walker cannot be defined by the people he shoots. “The more potent the individual, the better.” This thinking excludes no one. “Everyone has ‘a something,’” he says. Walker is interested in the individual, and the story they have to tell — a top model is as exciting to him as a musician, a dancer, a street-cast kid with a great look.
Tim Walker, Cloud 9; Radhika Nair; fashion: Halpern and Dolce & Gabbana; Pershore, Worcestershire, 2018. Photo: © Tim Walker Studio The new images in the show all feature couture fashion; each image is credited accordingly, but really it’s just a vessel to Tim’s world; it’s dressing up and performing. “Fashion is such a lie, and it astounds me that people don’t see that aspect of it. Not all lies are negative; there are some that are entertaining.
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