Review: Everyone Needs a Comforting Hug, and British-Themed Harwood Arms Delivers

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Review: Everyone Needs a Comforting Hug, and British-Themed Harwood Arms Delivers
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In Dallas, Everyone Needs a Comforting Hug, and British-Themed Harwood Arms Delivers

It’s hard to pin down exactly when it happened, but over the past two decades or so, the line between a restaurant and a bar has been significantly blurred. It used to be quite easy to tell the difference; if you sat at a table and looked at a menu with appetizers, entrées and desserts, you were in a restaurant. If you were ordering a drink from someone behind a bar, well, you were in a bar.

On a street lined with shimmering glass and concrete skyscrapers in the most modern of styles, the scarlet-hued paneled and leaded glass windows of Harwood Arms is an eye-catching throwback to Victorian design. Step inside, and the welcoming feel of an English public house reaches out as if to hug you. Rich wood millwork is everywhere, starting with the bar that’s front and center and the most illuminated part of the interior — like the hearth of a Welsh country house.

Naturally, there’s a beer-battered fish and chips, bangers and mash, or a Guinness-braised short rib. We went a little more traditional with shepherd's pie. The minced beef, peas and carrots were nestled under a bed of delightfully light whipped mashed potatoes, and the dish came in an adorable cast iron mini pot. It’s the kind of stick-to-the-ribs comfort food that pubs across the Isles are known for.Harwood also hits on more traditional bar favorites from the U.S. and does so with care.

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